minerve languedoc
Access History Village Walks Nearby Sights
When in Minerve enjoy a crepe, beer, or coffee at Celine et Thierry (its a large bar/restaurant on your right as you walk into the village taking the Grand rue to the right after the bridge over the gorge). They also have a large space perfect for groups to meet. Great views, warm atmosphere. (06 63 28 56 76)
The road winds slowly up the valley from the Beziers Carcassone highway, first climbing steeply then falling into the town of Aigues-Vives, that lies along the River Cesse. A river full of tricks up its sleeve as it disappears underground, in the heat of summer, in this wild landscape of Causses. Its gentle edges become sharp and defined as we go by La Caunette, tucked under cliff. Thin bridges tempt us to drive to perched farmhouses, but our aim is Minerve. Minerve a miraculous village perched over the meeting of rivers. Perched where rivers tunnel through deep gorges. Perched like a survivor, that it is, marking the massacre inflicted by Simon de Montfort during the crusades against the Cathars in France in 1210
Minerve boasts a fine bookstore - Paroli - where you can also buy coffee - it has a good selection of new and used books everything from novels, art books to regional, with collectors items too. There is an art gallery upstairs. You will find it in rue des Martyrs, next to the Syndicate Initiative. (open every day - 04 68 49 82 54)
The village was well protected with double surrounding walls, and overhanging ledges; but this did not stop the fear that Montfort gave. For the Viscount Guilhem of Minerve knew that the 200 men of his garrison couldn't resist the onslaught, if the gates should fall. And as the walls gave in of St Rustique's well, he negotiated the town's surrender. He saved the villagers and his self, but 140 Parfaits who had taken refuge, were burnt at the stake, because they refused to deny their faith. The burning of parfaits was the first in the crusade, a terrible act that was to be repeated for another 34 years until the fall of Montsegur.
Little is left of the fortress, except for the "candela" - a single slender octagonal tower. The village is a hodge-podge of narrow alleys, topped by a simple 12th century church that always seems closed. Nearby is a charming museum of full of figurines showing the history of the Cathars and Minerve.
Walk and follow the river underground
For excellent dining eat at Relais Chantovent, ask for a terrace seat if the weather is warm or a window seat for lovely views over the river gorge.
17 grand rue, Minerve. 04 68 91 14 18
Around and about the village are wonderful walks that test the soul and one's agility. Walks that skirt edges of cliffs, with drops to the churning of water in streams that run through small holdings. The river Cessiere tunnels under hill, next to the village, and one can, if the water's not high walk through, to yet another tunnel that breaks its way through yet another hill. The natural bridges provide the ideal background to grand spectacles of Son et Lumière in the Summer months.
Dolmen above Minerve
Minerve, the jewel of a rock perched town, invites us to investigate the towns and country around. To drive to neighbouring Aigne, with its beautiful church, and streets shaped like a snail. To walk along the Cessiére, near Cailhol, and bathe in cool spring fed river. To drive in the idyllic valley of Brian, and the heights of Vélieux, or drive towards Caunes Minervois, and discover remote chapels, dolmens, and natural wonders, on the way. Or to return down the valley to the Canal du Midi, and take in a walk and a meal perhaps at the waters edge.
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